The Encyclopedia

Every underdog, A–Z.

The grapes worth knowing — what they taste like, where they grow, and the famous names they quietly outdrink.

Alicante Bouschet

93

Portugal

Most red grapes have red skin and clear juice. Alicante Bouschet is different — its flesh runs crimson too. Here's why the original underdog deserves a spot on your table.

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Areni & indigenous Armenian blends

Armenia

The oldest known winery on earth is a cave in Armenia, dated to about 4100 BC. The country is still making gorgeous, fruit-soaked reds for the price of a movie ticket — and almost nobody is paying attention.

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Baga

Portugal

Baga is thin-skinned, fiercely tannic, bracingly acidic, and capable of aging for decades — so good it gets compared to Barolo's Nebbiolo. It's also one of Portugal's great overlooked reds.

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Mencía

Spain

Mencía was nearly written off as a producer of thin, jammy plonk. Then a handful of growers found old vines on steep slate slopes — and turned it into one of Spain's most elegant, fragrant reds.

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Nerello Mascalese

Sicily

On the slopes of Europe's most active volcano grow some of Italy's most thrilling reds — pale, perfumed, and ageworthy, often from ungrafted vines older than your grandparents. Meet Nerello Mascalese.

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Saperavi, Aleksandrouli & Mujuretuli

Georgia

The oldest wine country on earth makes a red grape with crimson flesh — just like Alicante Bouschet. If you've never had a Georgian wine, you've been missing 8,000 years of the story.

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Schiava (Vernatsch)

Italy

Schiava is the most-planted red in Italy's German-speaking Alps — pale, light, low-tannin, and almost absurdly easy to drink. It also has one of the most curious names in wine.

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Sercial

Portugal

Most people think Madeira is sweet. Sercial is its bone-dry opposite — electric, citrusy, and so high in acidity it can age for a century or more. It might be the most ageworthy wine you've never tried.

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Teroldego

Italy

Teroldego is a native of the Italian Alps that makes deeply colored, dark-fruited reds with real ageing potential — from a single tiny plain most wine drinkers have never heard of.

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Touriga Nacional

Portugal

Touriga Nacional is the backbone of great Port — but the secret is what it does as a dry red: powerful, violet-scented, age-worthy, and still a fraction of the price of the famous names it rivals.

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Trousseau / Bastardo

France

Trousseau is the pale, savory, light-bodied red that natural-wine lovers chase across the Jura. Here's the twist: it's the same grape Portugal has grown for centuries under the name Bastardo.

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Xinomavro

Greece

Xinomavro is tannic, high-acid, and so ageworthy that wine pros compare it to Barolo. It's also Greek, hard to pronounce, and absurdly underpriced — which is exactly why you should be drinking it.

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