The Field Guide

Eastern Spain

The side of Spain that faces the sea, and the four appellations on it that Rioja and Cava talk over. Three of these grapes are best known as ingredients in something else. All four are better on their own.

The Mediterranean side · four appellations

Eastern Spain

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The Field Guide · SpainNotes from Chris Berry

The history

The Penedès spent a century growing white grapes for sparkling wine, which is why Xarel·lo took so long to be bottled on its own and why Sumoll was nearly pulled out altogether.

The land

Coastal ranges holding back the Mediterranean, then dry limestone terraces climbing inland — hot days, cool nights, and very little rain once you leave the shore.

Wine styles

Textured, ageworthy still whites from Xarel·lo; pale high-acid Trepat reds; firm Moristel from the Pyrenean foothills; and Bobal's dark, fresh reds from old bush vines.

The underdogs to drink

Start with the grapes worth the detour. More guides land as we publish them.

Find your underdog

Take the two-minute taste quiz and get a starter list matched to what you already love — the lesser-known bottles worth chasing.

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