Cesanese: Rome's Spicy Red That Drinks Like a Softer Syrah

Cesanese is pronounced cheh-zah-NEH-zeh.

Rome's own red grape almost never leaves Rome. Cesanese grows on the hills southeast of the city, feeds the local trattorias, and rarely bothers to travel — which is exactly why you've paid Syrah prices for years without knowing it existed.

If you like Syrah for the black pepper and the dark fruit but wish it sat a little lighter, this is the bottle to chase.

What it tastes like

Start with red cherry and mulberry, then the spice arrives: cracked white pepper, a touch of cinnamon, sometimes a note of dried rose. Underneath runs a savory, forest-floor earthiness that keeps the fruit honest and stops the wine from reading sweet.

The build is medium — moderate color, soft tannins, lively acidity. That acidity is the whole trick. It makes Cesanese a table wine in the truest sense, the kind you keep pouring through a long meal because it never tires you out. Most bottlings are made to drink young, within a few years of the vintage, and they're better for it.

The peppery-savory core is where the Syrah comparison lives. Cesanese carries a similar spice signature, but with less weight, softer grip, and more perfume. Think of it as Syrah with the volume down and the aromatics up.

Why Rome kept it quiet

Cesanese is autochthonous to Lazio — grown almost nowhere else on earth, with the region holding the vast majority of the world's plantings. It splits into two biotypes. Cesanese di Affile is the smaller-berried, higher-quality version; Cesanese Comune is the workhorse, easier to grow and more widely planted.

The name to know is Cesanese del Piglio, promoted to DOCG in 2008 — Lazio's flagship red appellation. Two DOCs sit alongside it: Cesanese di Olevano Romano and Cesanese di Affile, both in the province of Rome.

So why has a grape this old stayed this obscure? Partly geography — Lazio has spent centuries as a bulk-wine region feeding the capital, its whites more famous than its reds. Partly reputation. For a long time Cesanese was made carelessly, farmed for volume rather than character, and it tasted like it. The wine you can buy now is the product of a small, recent quality revival, not a long unbroken tradition.

Bottles to look for

A handful of growers carried Cesanese back to seriousness, and their names are worth remembering. Damiano Ciolli is the most cited — his work in Olevano Romano is widely credited with leading the modern revival. Piero Macciocca's La Visciola is one of Piglio's most respected estates. Beyond them, a small circle of growers around Piglio and Affile bottles the higher-elevation Affile biotype for those who want the more structured version.

Here's the honest part. Cesanese is uneven. The revival is real but young, and the cheaper bottles can still taste thin and rustic — hollow in the middle, rough at the edges. There are no established critic scores to lean on the way you would with Barolo or Napa Cabernet, so you're buying on the grower's reputation and the region's word, not a number. That's the underdog's tax: less certainty, in exchange for a wine nobody around you has tried and a price that hasn't been bid up by fame. I'll take that trade most nights.

Where to buy

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US availability is thin but real, concentrated in Italian-focused shops and better wine retailers — you'll find del Piglio and Olevano Romano bottlings more often than Affile.

The honest caveat on buying it online: our retail partner lists sixty Cesanese bottlings and, checked in September 2026, the first twenty-five were all sold out, Damiano Ciolli's Riserva included. That is a catalogue of things that were once there. The link is down until something is actually in stock.

What works instead: ask an Italian-focused independent for a named grower rather than a generic "Cesanese del Piglio," and buy the vintage they have rather than the one you read about.

— Chris Berry

If you're switching from a famous grape

Reach for Cesanese when the Syrah you love is starting to feel heavy — same pepper, same dark fruit, less weight and softer tannin, with more floral lift on top. It's the savory-red move for anyone who wants spice without the density. See Wines Like Syrah for the full set of alternatives, or jump straight to Order This Instead.

Part of Lesser-Known Wines: 17 Obscure Grapes Worth Switching To — the full underdog-swap guide.