In 2007, archaeologists crawled into a cave near the village of Areni in southern Armenia and found a grape press, a fermentation vat, and storage jars — a complete winery, dated to roughly 4100 BC. It's the oldest known winery on the planet, more than a thousand years older than any other ever found. The grape seeds inside were Vitis vinifera, the same species we still drink today. People were making wine here before the wheel was common.
So why does Armenia get zero shelf space at your local wine shop? No good reason — which is exactly why it belongs here.
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The grape to know: Areni
Armenia's signature red is Areni, named for that same village, grown high in the Armenian Highlands. It's often compared to Pinot Noir for its bright red fruit and elegance, but it's tougher and more savory, shaped by extreme mountain altitude. It's the grape to seek out when you want to taste what 6,000 years of practice tastes like.
My way in
My own introduction was a little different — a semi-sweet red from the Aragatsotn region, and it completely won me over:
Tasting Review
Armenia Wine Semisweet Red
Indigenous Armenian blend · Aragatsotn, Armenia · 2018
Crisp, and it actually improves days after opening. A whole basket of red fruit — cherry, pomegranate, raspberry, strawberry. Joyful, and a steal.
If you like your reds dry, go straight for an Areni. If you're open to a little fruit-driven sweetness (and you should be — see my case for semi-sweet reds), a bottle like this is the friendliest possible introduction to the oldest wine culture on earth.
Why it matters
Armenia is the purest expression of the Wine Underdogs idea: a wine country with a 6,000-year résumé, indigenous grapes you've never heard of, and prices that haven't caught up to the quality because the gatekeepers aren't looking. Get there before they do.
— Chris Berry
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10 lesser-known bottles under $25 worth chasing — plus the weekly underdog read. No snobbery, just good wine.